March has me planning a garden, buying seeds…and setting up water systems. It looks to be a hot summer, but I have shade ready to keep my plants from burning up. In many places, however, there’s still a worry of frosts–and in Regency England, it was still time to be thinking about the last of winter hanging on. We’ve had St. David’s Day and St. Patrick’s Day in March, but the movable feasts of Good Friday and Easter falls into April this year–more time yet to be thinking of coloring eggs and what sort of special fare to have (I lean into strawberries at this time of year and asparagus, with perhaps a bit of lamb).

John Loudon’s 1822 book An Encylopaedia of Gardening starts to expand his list of fare available from the garden and here’s what he lists as spring begins, with most herbs coming out early:
March – Extra Brewing, Fattening Beasts, Paring and Burning, Oats and Grass in with other crops, Dealing with Moles, Dairy work, Sheep to pasture.
Culinary Vegetables from the open Garden, or Garden Stores. Brussels’ sprouts, borecoles of sorts, especially the early greens, and Breda cale, brocolis. Haricot beans and soup peas, from the seed-room. Potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, turnip, carrot, red-beet, parsnip, skirret, scorzonera, and salsify. Spinach occasionally, if mild. Onions from the root-room; Welch onions, ciboules from the garden; garlick, shallot, and rocambole from the root-room. Sea-kale from covered beds. Lettuce, endive, celery, American and winter-cress; also water-cress, burnet and others. Parsley horse-radish, and dried fennel, dill, chervil, &c. Thyme, sage, rosemary from the open garden; and dried marjoram, basil, mint, savory, &c. from the herb-room. Rhubarb stalks from covered roots; anise, coriander, carraway, and other seeds, chamomile, blessed thistle, and other dried herbs. Samphire. Nettletops, dandelion-leaves, bladder campion-tops, watercresses, brook-lime, sauce-alone. Mushrooms from covered ridges. Common and red dulse, sea-belt, and pepper-dulse.
Hardy Fruits from the open Garden, Orchard, or Fruit-room. Apples, pears, quinces, medlars, services from the fruit-room. Some dried grapes. Almonds, walnuts, chestnuts, filberts from the fruit-room.
Culinary Productions and Fruits from the forcing Department. Kidney-beans. Potatoes, radishes. Sea-kale, asparagus. Small salads, onions. Parsley, mint, chervil, sweet marjoram. Rhubarb. Mushrooms. A pine occasionally; grapes, cucumbers, strawberries. Oranges, shaddocks, lemons, olives, preserved pomegranates. quats, pishamin-nuts, leeches, &c. yams, and Spanish potatoes.
Other than odd spellings (such as pishamin for persimmon, and quats for kumquats), here are a few other words that are uncommon these days:
borecoles – comes from the Dutch word boerenkool and is another type of kale (also sometimes spelled cale).
ciboules – is another name for a green onion.
rocambole – this is a variety of garlic.
bladder campion-tops – this is a plant said to be best in spring when tender, and said to have a taste like a pea or asparagus.
brook lime – sometimes spelled as one word, this perennial herb has a peppery taste.
dulse – this refers to sea weed.
shaddocks – this is a fruit similar to grapefruit, and as a native to Southeast Asia would need to be grown inside a glasshouse.
Potatoes, of course, originate in South America, and so came to Spain first, and then spread across Europe and into Great Britain. In the early 1800s in England, the potato was still moving from being food fit for the poor into something that could be a staple across all classes.
Interestingly, what is thought of as a classic English dish–fish and chips–traces its roots to a Sephardic Jewish fried fish brought to England by Portuguese/Spanish immigrants, and then the fried potatoes come to England from Belgium. The first shop said to offer both fried fish and fried potatoes is credited to Joseph Malin, a Jewish immigrant in London who started serving up his fish and chips in the early 1860s.






















